In the last few days on the island we wanted to drive around the most famous Cretan monuments and cities to have a complete picture of the local culture. And we weren't so afraid of crowds when we're here in the middle of winter!

From Elafonissi we headed to the town of Paleochora. It was recommended to us as a quiet, small, seaside town. Along the sea on foot from Elafonissi it's less than 20km, but we drove around about 1.5 hours on the road through the mountains.

The first thing we needed to do was get water. We found one functional (in winter they're closed) tap by the promenade on the beach and were already looking forward to showering in the evening. We stopped for food at one local establishment, where again after the meal they brought us homemade raki with dessert. We chatted with the owner about the political situation in Greece and about traveling, got slightly drunk, and stumbled out where the sun was just setting. We ran up to the local viewpoint and admired the panorama of the city, mountains, and sea.

We spent the night by the sea. The next day wasn't nice. It rained most of the day and we had to move by evening. We were both already tired when we arrived on the other side of the island in the dark and just fell into bed. The place wasn't among the most beautiful, but we didn't care at that moment.

Back in the North

We spent the whole next day in the vehicle and were grateful for enough internet for work. In the evening we drove along the coast to Rethymno. We slept in the same place as last time. We needed to do laundry and I wanted to walk through the center. In the afternoon I finally managed to get Leo away from work and so we went on a tour.

In Rethymno there's a large Venetian fortress, old port, and historic center with narrow streets. We were lucky with the weather and the whole time it was beautifully sunny and barely windy. We mainly wanted to pop somewhere into a cafe for coffee. We fell into one that lured us with its smell and since it had been a while since lunch, we both also got smoothies and a large sweet pancake. We haven't been this overstuffed in a long time! And it was one of the best pancakes I've ever had!

Friends from Elafonissi recommended one freely accessible cave near Heraklion. That it's really worth a visit and there's also a place and peace for parking overnight. So we went! And it was definitely worth it! Skotino Cave is one of the largest sacred caves in Crete that's still being used. We spent about an hour there just climbing between stones and admiring the stalactites around.

Main Tourist Destination of Crete!

And since our stay in Crete is nearing its end, we can't skip visiting the Palace of Knossos. I probably wouldn't want to stop there in summer when it's season and the place must be absolutely packed. I didn't really know what to expect. When they discovered this place, it was supposedly just a few stones mostly hidden under deposits of soil. Now part is renovated, so you can even partially imagine what it looked like there. It's the place where King Minos lived, a figure from Greek mythology who had the legendary labyrinth created for the Minotaur!

On the way further we encountered a junkyard, so we stopped to inquire about several little things for the vehicle. After about half an hour of searching in various cars, we discovered a boiler relay that looked a bit better quality than ours. And so we bought 5 of them in reserve just in case! :D

Since we've been watching those snow-covered peaks in the center of Crete the whole time, we decided to drive there and try to get all the way to the hut from which people hike to the highest mountain of the island. They say this is one of the coldest winters ever and so our journey ended somewhere around 1100m above sea level, where the snow cover was already beginning and the road wasn't driven through. We stayed overnight, where we were lulled to sleep only by the tinkling of sheep.

Iveco Starts Protesting

In the morning we went to look at least around the corner to see more of the mountain range and walk on the snow. The views really weren't to be thrown away! But after a while the frozen snow started to collapse and melt. So we headed away from the mountains and on the way toward Chania. Our turbo is acting up somehow, making strange sounds that are getting worse. Since the repair (more details in this article https://svetemsusmevem.cz/?p=449) it was whistling slightly, but now it's rapidly worsened!

We stopped by the road and Leo started repairing it. It seemed to be a bit better. We were already preparing to set off again. But when Leo wanted to start, it wouldn't go at all! It kept stalling. So I ask him if it's related to what he did there, or is it something new? He says it's not related. And so we stand there for about 2 hours, cars driving by and we're digging in the engine. Well, mainly Leo. I'm just getting in the way more :D.

After several attempts he figured out our shutoff valve isn't working. This is new to me. The engine has such a valve that gives it a signal, now diesel is going and now not. And according to that it starts or dies. For us it's not working. Now the valve is stuck in the 'no diesel' position, so even when it's going there, the engine doesn't know about it. Leo opened it somehow, so we're able to start, but now it won't die on us! The only way to kill it is to leave it in gear. But poor I❤️ECO! It's quite a drastic way... and not at all healthy. Now we don't really want to mess with it anymore, but when we get back to the mainland, we'll have to figure something out.

...everything ends sometime

After the 'repair' we rather drove all the way to Chania and that same evening took a shorter walk into the center and for food. They have a historic port and center there. Romance was just oozing from it! And so we had burgers and beer... there was just a craving! :D

We moved to a beach just outside the city and stayed there for 2 days. We worked, waited, and hoped we wouldn't have problems on the way to the port. And we didn't! We drove over the evening before departure and stopped nearby. In the afternoon I still ran to the pharmacy for Dramamine and we're already boarding the ship!

After more than a month, Crete is saying goodbye to us with tears. It's drizzling slightly and we're also thinking we'll miss it! And who knows? Maybe in a week we'll turn it around and come back! :D